Express and Star Video

Express and Star came in last week to film the new centre and have now put the finished video on their site.

Check out their Video on the following link.

http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid17587589001?bctid=59434913001

Bolt Hangers Added

Just to let you know we have now added bolt hangers to lines 14 , 15 , 38 and 39. If you have your own quickdraws you can now lead the route on the lines.

Also I have up loaded a video of Zack Porter making full use of the new Lead wall ( it was a quiet Sunday afternoon). Check it out here


Merry Christmass and A Happy new Year

CHRISTMAS OPENING TIMES:

Thursday December 24th - 10am until 4pm

Friday December 25th - CLOSED

Saturday December 26th - CLOSED

Thursday December 31st - CLOSED

Friday 01st January 2010 - CLOSED

Route Grades

We now have gone through most of the new routes and the grades have been put on the board. There were a few initial mistakes but I think we have corrected most of them. If you think there is a mistake either tell myself or member of staff and we will check it out.
Please feel free to make any other comments about the routes.

Pictures of the new Center

Sorry I had not notice but the link for the photo's of the new wall was not working.

It has been corrected and the photo's are there for you all to see

Check out the picture's here

The New Wolf Mountain is Open

The dead line for opening was for 10am Saturday 5Th December! Come Friday 4Th Dec evening the old wall closed at 6pm and the mad rush to get everything we needed moved to the new wall. The Lower off had to be removed and installed at new wall, the flooring was removed and taken to the new wall and the other stuff harness , helmets , computers the list seemed endless. But everybody got stuck in and just kept going until we had done as much as we could and it was ready for opening. But by now quite a bit of time had gone by, it was about 4:30am as myself and Deb , Andy and Lol, Steve decided were done. We left only Julian, Damian , Rowen , Brian and Mike to finish off.
We got a bit of sleep but we arrive back to the new centre for about 9:45am and there was already quite a few people waiting to get in. The doors opening and it was great to see so many people turn up and try out the new centre. Every body seemed to be enjoying and it all went OK with a steady flow of people through out the the day. We even had time to try the a few of the new route's .
There is still loads more work to do, we now need to start build the dedicated Climbing party room and the bouldering wall and the stamina Tunnel need to be done too. Hopefully there will be some bouldering for early Jan 2010 ready for the kids comp.

Thanks to all the people that came to help and thanks Julian , Damian and Mike for building a great new Center.

Check out the picture's here also check out a short piece of Video Footage here

For more information check out the website www.wolfmountian.co.uk

Route setting is Hard Work

We have not climbed since our Font trip (this will be the 4Th week), the longest I have gone with out climbing for a very long time! We have been hard at work getting the new wall ready for all you guys to play on. The main lead wall and one half is all set ( thanks to Mark Croxall and Danni) with lots of shiny new holds including insitu quick draws.
Myself , Deb, Sie and Jay have been working on the other half and it's nearly ready. There are a total of 50 Line's and we are trying to set at least two routes per line, so there should be plenty to keep you all going.
Remember it opens Sat 5Th Dec (only 3 more days!!) but I am afraid there will be no bouldering until early Jan 2010 (there is a kids comp on 10th Jan, so some bouldering will be ready for then).

So do not forget your ropes and get down and try out all the new routes.

See you all Sat

The Time as Finally Arrived "Wolf MKII"

Wolf Mountain is moving!

We are pleased to announce that we will be moving premises on Saturday 5th December The new centre boasts a variety of new walls including a 12 metre lead wall! In addition to this, the caving system has been extended and has many new features. The centre also houses an archery range, two themed party rooms, a café and ample viewing areas for thosewho wish to spectate.

Initially there will be no bouldering area,but this will be completed early 2010.

Where we are Wolf Mountain Map


Our new address is as follows:
Wolf Mountain
Paget Road
Wolverhampton
WV6 0DU
(We are located behind Wolverhampton College)

To complement our programme of activities we now offer mountain biking and archery sessions.
We also have an extremely popular mobile climbing wall that can be hired for events across the UK.

Keep checking the website for more info http://www.wolfmountain.co.uk/

Office: 01902 711186 Mobile: 07957 433187 or email:info@wolfmountian.co.uk

Last Climbing trip of the year

We have just arrive back from Fontainebleau our last climbing trip of the year. The week started by traveling down then on saturday and when we got the the weather was good , but being tired from the traveling we thought we would start on Sunday. A mistake that night we had lots of rain and even when it wasn't raining ever thing was still wet from the humid and foggy conditions.

View Larger Map

The first dry spell was on Tuesday so we headed off to Gorge aux Châts as we new it dried quickly. Deb and Lance wanted to try Rubis sur l'Ongle and Lou wanted to try Sa Pelle au Logis, and I had no idea what to get on. First I should them a problem I had done last time we were there Opéra Tchétchène raccourci 7a. I repeated this to show them what to do and Lance followed after a few more goes. Deb almost finished this but fell off the final mantle move as being shorter she could reach the better hold. Lou was doing really well and then it began rain. In between their goes I started to try La Tour d'Ivoire 7c a cool looking sit start overhanging arete (after getting the beta off Tom), it felt hard but doable We tried to cover the holds but the rain just got worse game over for the rest of the day.
Wednesday morning was clear and bright so we head back to Gorge aux Châts, Deb did really well Rubis sur l'Ongle 7b+ ,but being only the short could get into and hold the move but could not reach the next hold, we could not work out a better sequence so she could reach. Lance tried and struggled to reach Debs high point. I had a quick play and surprise myself and got to the ruby hold but then fell off. I had a few more goes on La Tour d'Ivoire and almost got the move to the good hold.
The weather was still good so we head over to Bas Cuvier for the afternoon. I needed to go back a finish off the problem I was on as I left early this year. The right hand sit start to L'Aérodynamite 7b+ (7c) , but found out the actual problem I was trying was Aérosol 7b+. Still a good problem and some nice move. After quickly working out the starting moves I then managed to work out the top move. A quick rest and the first new tick of the trip was in the bag. Lance and Deb had a quick play and did really well but did not quite manage it. Lance had also been trying L'Angle Incarné 7b and was doing well but not quite manging to stand up but it was in the sun so decided to leave it for now. I had a few goes on it and it felt like it would go but got tired too.
By now Deb was rested after her power nap and ready for a go on Le Carnage assis 7c , she had done the standing version (7b+) before and wanted to do the sit version. After few goes to remember the sequence the was soon getting really high and just slipped off a move before the big boss. By now it had started getting dark so we headed back to the gite.
Thursday was another wash out day , with everything being wet.
Friday came with a slow start no rain but it all needed time to dry out , but by lunch it Bas Cuvier. We all started by doing the usual warm ups by La Marie-Rose, this was great it was day the sun was even out for a while this is what font is all about. We then all head for our projects , me and Lance wanted to get back on L'Angle Incarné and Deb on Le Carnage assis 7c.
Lance was struggle with this problem again and getting frustrated and after a number of goes gave in and went to repeat La Joker 7a, which he did twice. I struck with and finally after quite a few goes managed to pull it out of the bag and top out. We then then moved back over to the Carnage boulder for Deb to try again and we were joined by Giuseppe (an great Italian guy , who lived in Switerland) who we had meet earlier in the week. The temperatures were good and the rock felt good. Deb was doing great and but just kept slipping off before the finally move, which was a real shame as she was making the start look so easy. I joined in with Giuseppe and another young french guy on La Bérézina (L'Abbé Résina) 7c. I wanted to try Bérézina-Carnage 7c+ but I needed to repeated the start La Bérézina first. Buy now it was pitch black and I had a head touch on the french guy had a big torch but Giuseppe saved the day with the most power full Head Torch I had ever seen, it lit up the whole boulder so we could carry on. The french guy soon managed to do Bérézina-Carnage and I got really close a couple of times but just slipped off. Deb got close to Le Carnage assis 7c too but we were to tired and it was late so we called it a night.

Check out the Video here

*** NEWS FLASH ***

On Saturday I finally managed to Redpoint Caviar (F8a+) on Rubicon wall at Water-Cum-Jolly. I have been trying this over the summer this year and been struggling the learn the moves and fighting against the warm conditions. But I finally got to the point a month or so ago I felt like I was in the position to try and lead the the route, up until then I had only top rope it.
The route is quite condition depend and it needs to be cool for a good attempt. The start is kind of technical and balancy for a couple of moves and then it gets steeper on good holds to a good flake and good left hand pocket ( to here is a Font 7b boulder problem). The angle begins to ease off here and you make a long move to good pinch hold. Then quickly move your feet way out right and slap your left hand to a very small two finger crimp, move your feet again to back step your left on top of the flake. Your left hand slaps again to a higher but better crimp. Move you feet again, rock over on your right foot and flag your left and then power scream to another small right hand crimp (for me this was the hardest move). It's not over yet , stand your left foot in the pocket at the top of the boulder problem and then right hand comes over the top of your left to the two finger spike, re adjust left foot and reach right hand to a good flat edge and then slap into the big horn with you right hand and re-position feet and clip the third bolt ( I had chosen to pre clip the first 2 bolts). In theory the that's the route done one more bolt and then the lower off. But I was pumped and although the next set of holds are big jugs I was fighting to recovery. I rested for a bit then went up to clip the fourth bolt and down climbed to rest a bit longer , I had one more tricky move to do to get through the final bulge. I went for it matched on the under cut crossed over the with my right hand the finger jug, it felt small because i was so tired, twist into an egyptian and reached for the better jug, but I was tired could reach to the hold I would normally get so I had to hold that and cross over the top again then reach for the top of the bulge rock up and I was there clipping the lower , my first 8a+!
Thanks to Deb for her belaying and support.

Check out these earlier videos - one and two

Down South Wales

A group of us all headed down to Swansea for the weekend as we had been invited to Deans and Phee's wedding reception on Saturday evening. We took the opportunity to head over to Dinas Rock for a days bouldering at Kenelgarth Wall before we went to the party. Myself, Deb, Sie and B had been, but Joe and Claude had not.
We meet the at the crag to find it a little damp but were determined and set to work drying the holds and get to warming up. It is only a small piece of rock but it has 20 up problems and 4 Traverse, with loads of other eliminates as well as 4 or 5 sport routes on it. The quality of the rock is solid, if a bit polished , but does suffer from a little seepage. Although it does stay dry in the rain and it is a great little venue.

Last time we were her we were trying Fat Cat Roof (v9 /Fnt7c), so we were up to try this again. Previously Deb had done all the moves and I was struggling. The story was the same again I was struggling and Deb quickly worked the top section. The crux of the problem is coming from the back of the cave to a small crimp in the roof and a heel hook to a tiny undercut in the roof next to the crimp and push right round the lip to another crimp , then swing your feet round to the lip and rock and long way to a good hold.
After a rest she decided to give it a go from the start. She easily got round the lip and two swings to the foot hold and the rock over and she cruised to the top, done. We all had a go but no one else got close.

Check out the Video, Sorry no video of Deb as the camera person was busy having a sandwich.

More Boulder Problems

Last night myself, Deb and Sie added 12 more boulder problems for you all to try. There are a few more easy problems and some mediums. We have also added few tricky one. There is a total of 39 problems now.

*** NEWS FLASH ***

On Sunday Afternoon Deb completed her second 8a, only six weeks after doing her first.
Again at Water-Cum-Jolly on Rubicon wall she successfully redpointed Dangerous Brother's F8a, a short but fierce finger classic ( I can't really do any of the moves). After a short session on it 18 months ago where she did all the moves but the first long move to a small three finger pocket and three more session she cruised to the top with easy.
Well Done again and well deserved after all her hard work. Watch this space hopefully more to come.

New Boulder Problems

Mark Croxall was in on Tuesday and has set 27 new boulders fro you all to try. There is the usual mix of easy and really hard problem to frustrate you all. Hopefully next Monday Evening myself and Deb are planning to set some more problems for you too try as well.

Chillin on the Grit

After my success on Saturday on Out of my tree we decided to take it easy on Sunday and have a nice day on the gritstone. So we meet up with Joe and Claude at Trackside boulder at Curbar. It was still in the shade so we warmed up on the classic problems there, Trackside, Strawberries etc. Claude was still trying Strawberries ( classic fnt 6a, you either love or hate) she has done all the moves now and got really close. I am sure she will do this soon, certainly before Joe will.#

Joe on Trackside

As it started to warm we decide to check out Rowtor Rocks as it would be a bit shady and cooler.
Joe wanted to try Blood Falls (Fnt 7b) it was a bit warm but OK. Joe had a few good goes but couldn't quite do all the moves. I managed to repeat it as I had done the last year and Deb was getting really close but not quite making the long last move, next time. Claude wanted to try a Fnt 6a that she had tried before but was struggle on the first move, But after a bit of beta and some more goes she managing to get all the way to the end but not quite mantle out the top.
Next we moved on to Short Sean's Reachy Roof ( Fnt 7a and reachy it is). First a quick play on the Fnt 6a+ next to it. I quickly worked out the beta and did but Joe was struggling with the start , he could reach the holds round the lip but could not quite hold on long enough to move his feet up. I am sure he will get it next time. I decide to have a go at the Fnt 7a+ eliminate (sans block) . I pretty much flashed it to the last move but just could not do the the last move. After playing around on the last move for a while I still could not do it , so one last go. What a mistake as I pulled and slipped a crystal ripped and slit in my index finger , doh! and I land on my ass missing all the mats. Came over lets go to the Pub.

Check out the Video

As it was my birthday on Tuesday myself and Deb were up there two more days, great! So Monday we set of to Water-Cum-Jolly as I wanted to try and Redpoint Caviar (F8a+) and Deb was going to get on Dangerous Brother's (f8a). The Condition were could nice and cool , but I wasn't I had done too much the day before ( chillin on the grit) and my finger was quite sore. Never mind I just got on with it , with a bit on super clue, I was doing ok and but after three or four goes I was shattered and my skin couldn't take it any more.
Next up Deb, she had tried this route a last year briefly and done really well on it but not done the first reachy move. After a few goes she had worked out the first move and then quickly worked out the rest and top roped in three overlapping section. But it was late and we were tired so we decided to come back tomorrow.

Dangerous Brother F8a & Cavair F8a+

Tuedays morning came round our last day over cast and slightly damp. Good we thought it should stay cool. But first off to the outside cafe in Hathersage for breakfast and then to Water-Cum-Jolly again. It was still overcast , cool and damp so we set the ropes up. Deb had another top rope of her route just to make sure she knew what she was doing. Next up my turn to try and redpoint Caviar , I was felling tired and not up for it but I would have a go anyway but then the weather turned on us, the sun came out and it got really hot , too hot for my route so after a quick go I sacked it off.
Deb on the other hand had had a good rest and luckily some cloud cover came across , so she went for a redpoint. She managed to get the first two clips and then just missed doing the crux move. She got back on and too the top not bad f8a with one rest, next time. By now we were tired again and had the long drive back to Wolverhampton.

check out the Video of Me falling off Caviar

I am "Out of My Tree"

Finally I have completed a route at Raven Tor in the Peak District. After going to this crag over the years and trying different routes and never quite being able to do the crux moves on any I tried. Over the last few weeks though I have been Working on Out Of My Tree (8a) and after finally doing the crux move last weekend I new this could be the one.
So after arriving on late afternoon on Saturday to get cooler conditions a quickly worked the easy top section to warm up. I then had a few goes on the boulder problem start (Fnt 7b). Then after a rest i completed the route on my first redpoint.

New Video's

I have uploaded a few more of my video's to you tube to inspire you to get out climbing.
The weather is cooling down and the nights are drawing in and the end of the summer has come. Gritstone season is nearly hear.

Check out the video's

Newstones A few Problems at Newstones, Staffordshire Grit

Nick on Pebble Mill Traverse Nick on Pebble Mill Traverse, Burbage South Edge, Fnt 7a

Imagination Nick On Imagination , Nesscliffe , Shropshire E3 6a

Demon Roof Deb on Demon roof wall, Almscliff

Edges Wall Deb on Edges wall , Cromlech Boulders

Thin Air Nick on Thin Air at the Roaches.

Portland bill Various clips of routes from Portland Bill.

New Routes Set

Myself , Deb , Jay and Andy have reset Panels 1 to 9 . There are about 20 new routes mostly easier grades. But the are a few tricky ones, like the Grey and Purple on Panel 6 (may be a touch reachy) and the hardest of the bunch being Black on Panel 7 (and it is not reachy as it was set and climbed by Deb 5'3")

My Climbing Series

This year see's a new Youth Climbing Competition for the Midlands Area.

MY (Midlands Youth) Climbing Series

The 4th round of this event will be held at Wolf Mountain on the 10th Jan 2010.

Check out the Link below and get your entry forms in

http://www.myclimbingseries.co.uk/

So get training hard now!

*** NEWS FLASH ***

The Big news is that Deb has Finally realised a life time ambition to climbing French 8a

On Monday evening in some what not ideal conditions (a humid 20Deg) Deb managed to comfortably red pointed Hot Fun Closing (F8a) at Water-Cum-Jolly.

Unfortunaly we did not get it on video but you can see a previous attempt on this old blog link.

I will try and post some the old footage when I can sort this out.

Well Done again and well deservered.

A Weekend in the Peak

A weekend in the Peak was successful for some of our friends from the wall.

Joe on Saturday (his birthday) , managed to repoint Rubicon Wall (F7a+) at Water-cum-Jolly
and on Monday managed to complete the boulder problem Trackside (Fnt7a) at Cubar.

Joe On Rubicon Wall 7a+

Here a link to Joe's Video's

On Sunday Claudette did her first Fnt 6a+ at Stanage.

Also on Saturday Sie also quickly repointed Rubicon Wall (F7a+) after Joe.

Now Tim has move upto leeds but he has not been forgotten and we bumped in to him at Raven Tor where he quickly repointed Rattle and Hump (F8a).

I managed to complete on Monday a Boulder Problem WeedKiller Direct(Fnt7b+) (not the sit start though) at Raven Tor

WeedKiller Direct 7b+

3 Men and a ledge

It was the day when ‘Pedestal’ was knocked off, ‘Black and Tan’ was tanned and ‘Rotunda’ got her buttress well and truly kicked. Even the great ‘Sloth’ turned green.
WM instructors Jim, Jay and Mike headed over to The Roaches for a bit of a play.
Base camp was at the foot of ‘The Great Slab’ on the upper tier and our arrival prompted the sun to come out and watch. He was so impressed with what he saw he stayed with us all day!
Pedestal Route was chosen for our warm up and as soon as ‘Jimmy 2 ropes’ was sorted he was off and lead a faultless climb, apart from the beginning, middle and end.
After a couple of hours Jim made himself safe and Mike and Jay quickly followed him up.
The appearance of the sun caused Mike to take his windcheater off and the appearance of a school group and two families caused jay to take his t-shirt off!!
With the temperature nudging the 80’s, Jim decided to leave his jacket on?
Black and Tan was next on the list and it was Jim’s bright idea to practice multi-pitch climbing on this 30m classic.

After a tricky start Jim soon made it up to the ledge and promptly made sure he had the most room whilst Jay who arrived second soon set up a nice patio table and recliner. Mike was less fortunate but by using a one-finger crimp on a pebble and actually sucking the wall! he managed to stay on.
The second pitch was lead by Jay who quickly disappeared from view while Mike and Jim pondered as to why he hadn’t taken the second safety rope! Oh well.
Next Jim decided to give Rotunda Buttress his full attention and stalked her base, guidebook in ond. This 18m ascent had already chewed and spat Mike and Steve on a previous visit some 3 years earlier (all be it during a horrendous hailstorm) and Jim was avin none of that!!

Before you could say “Jay, flex your muscles there’s some people coming” Jim was off and made light work of the first 10m. Then the language turned a bit blue as Jim said Hi to a couple of slopers.
The final push was made and Jim cleared the summit to much ollering n hooting, from Jim and a “what do you think you’re doing mate”? from a veteran BMC member. Well done Jim, great climb.

After a great day out we returned to WM to reflect on the day.

One of us laughed.

One of smiled.

One of us cried.

But we all agreed to do it again someday.

First Time On Real Rock

Sunday was George and Dom's first time out on real rock. We had arrange to take them and their dad's to Llanymynech quarry to show how to go about going sport climbing out on the real rock. Also there was Big Andy's and Alison, Jay, Rich and later Sie.
We had all ready had a session at the wall running through how to use a clip stick to get to the top of a climb and how to thread a lower. The sun was shinning for a change and now they had the chance to try for real. Steve (George's dad) was up first to put a rope up Sheila's Route (f5+) and with a few minders he quickly had the top rope setup.
While the rope was up it was time for George and Dom to experience there first out door climb. They both did really and managed to get to the top fairly easily apart a few complaints about it being muddy and that there weer no hands holds. Also Steve and Andy both top roped this route too there first climbing outside too.
Now it was Andy's(Dom's dad) turn to put a rope up Dirty Climb(f5+) and again managed to setup another top rope without to much hassle , apart from my dodgy clip stick. So both kids went up this route with ease.
By now Jules had arrived with Zach and Imy they both did Dirty Climb(f5+). Big Andy put a rope up Dream of White Horses, Not (f6a) Dom , George and Zach all top roped this with out too much bother. Zach had a good effort on trying to lead this and completed with a few rest. Steve decide to also top rope this and did it easily, not bad for a first time out on rock, I even think he enjoyed it more than the kids.
Big Andy also let his new route , Life begins at 40 (f7a) this time putting the clips in as he went. Jay and Sie had a play on this put both were getting totally pumped. We also put a rope on Little Weed (f7c) , Deb as usual found this easy and was doing laps on it. I was struggling climbing with a bad back and being tired so Sie and Jay had there first go of this , both doing really well, and after a few more goes Sie was nearly doing all the moves. Good effort to both as conditions were not the best with it being a bit hot and slimmy.
Cheers to everyone for and great and every one help.

Here is a link to a few Videos from the day.

Dom on Sheila's Route
George on Sheila's Route
Andy of Life Begins at 40

Photos from the day

Rain, Rain and more Rain

It has been a bit slow on the climbing outside front lately, but in between the rain showers we have been trying to get out and do stuff. Last weekend sat afternoon was spent at Raven Tor were I played on the route Rattle & Hump (F8a) , which I had tried years ago and could not do the crux, I thought maybe I could now, but it turns out I still can't although I did feel a lot closer. Deb had a play on Power Humps (font 7b+) again and got to the last move three times but quite have enough in her to finish it.
On the Sunday we went down to Rubicon and I had a play on The Sissy (f8a), has this stayed dry in the rain. This is a classic peak f8a , with small finger sharp holds, with the crux being a hideous match on a crimp. I managed to do all the move apart from the match. Not sure it is one for me though. Deb had a play on her project again (Hot Fun Closing f8a) and did some good cross links but the top holds were wet.
We even went up to Rubicon on Monday night after work to make the most of the good weather. Unfortunately Deb was not feeling to good buy the time we got but still had a few goes at her project. I managed to repeat Kudos (Font 7b) which I only can occasionally do and Bigger Splash direct (LH u’cut) (Font 7b+).
This weekend again saw us at Raven Tor this time I wanted to try Out of my Tree (f8a). After warming up i decided to give Weed Killer Traverse (Font 7a+) another go after I failed last time and after a few goes it was done. Check out the Video here. So then I moved on to Out of My Tree , again I had tried this a while back and was struggle with the crux. But first I had to try and repeat the boulder problem start (Font 7b). I managed to do this after half a dozen goes, now just the crux to work out. This involves locking off a finger jug in the left hand with one foot quite high and reaching up and over to a right hand small side pull which is above and left of you left hand, hold this step you left foot through to and small outside edge and then heel hook right foot next to your left hand, know hold the position had snatch your left hand to the good crimp a full arms length away easy. Well not so easy I couldn't quite latch the crimp, but I was getting there but was too tired now and time to go home. So out of the 3 f8a's I have tried I think this one is the one I will stick to trying for now.
Sunday saw us back a Rubicon again and after putting the rope up Hot Fun Closing and warming the weather started to get worse , the route was still dry but Deb had cooled off too much waiting for the rain to stop. she had one really good go trying to warm up again, but the then the rain came again and the route got wet. Good progress on the route , just a matter of being there in the right conditions now.

Timmy at the Tor

Sunday we caught up with Tim and Leslie at Raven Tor in the Peak. Leslie was trying WeedKiller Traverse (Font 7a+/b). She got very close and should have done it climbing very smooth. I as usual struggle with the all the pockets and slots. Deb on the other quickly did after a couple of goes. Tim showed us all up by doing it footless in 7 moves.

Tim next moved on to try Stamina Humps (font 7c+) and after a fews try we got him on Video do the problem. Deb had a few goes on Powers Humps (Font 7b+) and just failed to latch the last but one hold.

Andy's 40th B'Day

Sunday was Andy's Walkers 40th birthday and all he wanted to do was do lead his new route at Llanymynech. We were all invited and the plan was to meet at the Quarry at 10am Saturday morning. I woke early that morning in anticipation of the day ahead, I had the responsiblity of getting his new route ready by putting all the hangers in place and making sure all the holds were clean. As I looked out of the window to see it had been raining all night and it still was! A quick phone call to Andy, as he was already near the quarry, he confirmed it had been raining but more to the point it had stopped there and looking ok, that was a relief.
We all meet on the car park and took the short walk into the quarry, it was dull and overcast and very humid, but route was dry. I quickly set too work getting ropes up and began to put the hangers in place ready for Andy. But first up was little Jack, after a quick practice on a tope rope, Jack lead the route just to the right of Andy's (Walker's Walk 6a+/b) clean easily, the bar had been set for the day.

Check out the Video here

Next up was Andy, a little under pressure from himself but confident. Off he went up the easy start too the first rest. After a quick shake out he took off , climbing confidently he got to the second brief rest. There was little bit of leg shake but he got that under control and made the long move to the jug and the last clip, just one more tricky move, this is were all times practicing the route would pay off. He's done it the lower off is clipped. Nice one Andy 1st Redpoint, cheers from every even an appearance for his hero Nick Dixon has he finished the last moves. Just in time the sun comes out.

Check out the Video here

Nick Dixon and myself quickly took the 2nd and 3rd Ascent to try and confirm the grade as 7a.

Next up was Joe with an old score to settle. Just before Joe went away traveling his was desperately trying to get is first 7a , he had done all the moves and on Slobberlob(7a+) but every time he tried to lead it he would end up falling off. So I went and put the clips in for him and had a quick top rope to refresh his memory and give it a could clean. Then went for his first redpoint, oh no he struggle to try and make the 4th clip and fails and takes a fall. Looks like this is going to be another mission. Another rest and then another go and he decides this time he will miss out the clip and he just misses catching the jug and he off again. Another rest and another go this time he fails on a lower move. That's it this time is going get done off he goes, misses the 4th clip lays one on for the jug catches it , clips the 5th clip one move and clips the lower off. Nice one , not bad for a first route in the 7's. Let the grade debate start as the many think this is 7b?

Check out the video here

While this was all going every else was enjoy themselves top roping rope and generally having fun. What a great day the weather held off and only to start raining as we packed up and walk back to the cars to off to the Birthday BBQ.

Cheers Andy for a good food and drink and great night and Happy Birthday!

Getting Outside

Now the Weather is nice it is time to get outside climbing and put all you have learnt inside together into the real rock. But where do you go and how do you you go about it. Well hopefully the following information may help you do this. But remember Climbing can be dangerous so always be careful and take nothing for granted.

Nesscliffe

Where to go

Living in Midlands you may think there is no local climbing, well may be there are no crags 10 minutes away but 45min to 1hr there certainly are. With Llanymynech and Llangollen highly recommended for novices

Crag	Location	Sport	Trad	Bouldering	Distance/Time from Wolf Mountain
Llanymynech	Shropshire	X	X		50m / 50mins
Nesscliffe	Shropshire		X	X	42m / 42mins
Pontesford	Shropshire		X		45m / 45mins
Churnet	Staffordshire		X	X	40m / 53mins
Llangollen	Wales	X	X		63m / 1hr 10

Crag	Topo
Llanymynech	http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/clwyd/Llanymynech.htm
Nesscliffe	See Nick Dixon’s Guide
Pontesford	http://westmidlandsrock.co.uk/downloads.htm
Churnet	seek local knowledge and peak bouldering guide
Llangollen	http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/clwyd/Clwyd%20index.htm

Llangollen

How to

The easiest way to get out climbing is to go bouldering (although be careful you can still injury yourself more so than doing routes). All you need is a pair of climbing boots, some chalk and it is nice to have a bouldering mat.

The next easiest do is sport climbing. This is were there are already bolts and lower off already in the climb for you to clip a quick draw into , just like a the wall.

If you are used to leading you can just go ahead and lead as normal. If not the use of a clip stick , Petzl Grigri and a rope you can self belay between the clip to lower off and thread this ready for top roping ( see this link How to Thread a Belay or BMC Info)

Then there’s traditional climbing where the leader places there own protection. Is is not easy and require lots of gear and lots of time learn what to do. The best way to learn this is to go out regularly with some one who knows what they are doing. There are crags though like Trevor Quarry at Llangollen which you can walk to the top and use existing stakes to set you top ropes, but you may need some slings and screw gate karabiners for this.

Here are a few links to help on your way and a few books suggestions

BMC - Safety & Skills

ACMGGuides - Climbing Skills

Mountaineers books - Basic Skills

Mountaineers books - From Gym to Crag

Rockfax - Trad Climbing

Rockfax - Sport Climbing

Equipment

Petzl GriGri

Bouldering Mats

Clip Sick

BMC - Equipment Advice

And here are some other useful links

http://www.rockfax.com/

http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/

http://thebmc.co.uk/

New Boulder Problems

Both Bouldering Walls have now been reset with new problems for you all to try

Devon Coast to Coast MTB

Recently Julian and Mike took a pair of students to Devon to ride the 102 from Ilfracombe to Plymouth Coast to Coast route. Whilst down there Steve who has previously worked at Wolf Mountain joined them on there 2 day ride.
With all the Devon countryside as inspiration and lots of fresh air a verse was born:

COAST TO COAST

In a land of folk lore and fairytales Begins an adventure in a Bay of sails Adventurers down from the smoke Joined by Glastonburys’ scary bloke Bellies full of cereals and toast

Set off on a journey, Coast to Coast.
Twas not long before they were tested
And it was in Braunton that they rested
The uphill 3 mile start was grueling
The 5 man team needed refueling
An ancient map printed front and back
Guided them along the Tarka Track
The weather fine and sea at the shore
The folk of Bideford watched in awe
For 60 mile the men pushed on
Ending the first day in Oakhampton
But disaster had struck at Hatherleigh
And what were 5 turned into 3!
62 miles now completed
Would the men of ‘the smoke’ be defeated?
Even though the group was now depleted
The 2nd day saw 4 men seated
Sleeping compartments taken down
The group set off from the middle of town
Facing forest foliage and moorland heather
But more foreboding; a change in the weather!
When it rains locals’ talk of Gods’ Fountain
And this is was hit the brave men of Wolf Mountain
It pounded them for hours on end
Definitely more foe than friend
Finally at 2 o’clock
The sodden men reached Tavistock
Soaked to the bone by the precipitation
What they needed was some inspiration
Then Scary Man said “This is how,
If were going to go it has to be now!”
With new hope and spirits raised
The men remounted bikes, unfazed
But 1 couldn’t recover sufficiently
So the group of 4 was once more 3.
The rain now stopped, the order given to go
On the final leg to Plymouth Hoe
What lay ahead was un-chartered and new
Those left behind bid farewell to the few
3 brave men into the distance rode
Not taking the easy route but going off-road
20 mile of hills and dales
Through the land of folklore and fairytales
If they survived intact and not flea bitten
Another fairytale would be written
And so it came to be that, still alive
They arrived in Plymouth at just turned 5
So raise your glasses, here’s the toast
To those who completed the ‘Coast to Coast’
At the foot of the Lighthouse gathered the team
Their pride and satisfaction on their faces did beam
But one person was thinking, ‘mmm maybe we can’
NO!! we all pleaded, but Jules had a plan.

Anon..

BMC Youth Climbing Series 2009 British Final

Well Done to all our kids who got to the Finals down at Westway, a great effort from all of them.

Here are the results from the the final on Saturday from the Wolf Mountain Junior Team

Results for Girls 8-10

Imogen Porter 18

Results for Boys 8-10

George Morris 2

Dominic Vincent 3

Results for Boys 11-13

Duncan Fisher 12

Jack Dyer 16

Zack Porter 16

Results for Girls 14-16

Libby Dodd 23

Team Results

For the Full result check this link

and the BMC Report

Message From North Wales

After a recent Trip to North Wales, Deb Completed with a Classic Problem down in Llanberis Pass. The Problem was Bus Stop (font 7c / V9) after only 3 short session. Unfortunately we did not get actually ascent on Video, but there is some footage of her working it, see the links below.

Also finally two years after Deb and on the last day of our trip I managed to complete Rock Atrocity (font 7c / v9) in Parisella's Cave , Llandudno. Again not the actual ascent but some footage cut together, see below.

Deb on Bus Stop
Nick on Rock Atrocity
Lance and Nick on Parisella's Roof
Nick on Bust Lip

a few photo's

Local Legend

Local Climbing Legend and Wolf Mountain Friend Nick Dixon has recently completed his new route at his home from home Nesscliffe in Shropshire. Here are a few words about the route as I was lucky enough to try this route earlier on this month. Since writing this he completed this route, but not with out a near ground fall.

Over Last few weeks I have been belaying Nick on his new route at Nesscliffe , there is no grade or name yet, that joy comes when he has finished the route. One Thursday evening myself and Andy went over to see what all the fuss was about. Nick had spent an hour building what looked like a giant birds nest under the route to flatten out the landing to put some bouldering mats on. After a quick chat about the moves on the route (I could hardly see any holds) and a nail he had placed low down and a peg he had just shorten at the local garage with a grinder, we threw our pads on the nest. With videos rolling and the humidity rising Nick set off leading the route. The first moves are OK and the "nail" was clipped and then he reached up to the first and last good hold next to the nail then straight into the first section of hard climbing. He gets his feet up really high next to his hands (and the nail) and starts to rock over, oops wrong foot hold, he down climbs half a move, gets the right foot hold and carries on. With the nail below his feet he gets a small pinch in his left and moves his feet gently up to poor footholds and crosses through to a one finger pocket, from this he clips the peg. I am not sure who was more relived, him or me belaying. You get a very brief pause here but then straight into the next move, one and a half finger pocket for the left hand. Damn! he tries to reposition for the next move he loses his balance and he is off and hanging off the peg. He his happy though, he was hoping to get to the peg and he did. It was a great effort and he looked solid. He could relax now and concentrate on working the next set of moves. The Next move I would say is the hardest move on the route, from the two one finger pockets you have to move you feet up and then slap or place ( depending how strong you feel) your right hand to a gaston, the thin lip on the small arrete and then again move your feet up really high whilst holding the gaston and one finger. As you rock on to your left foot you can then layoff the arrete with you left hand (your feet now level with the pegs) where you can kind of relax (ish) for a while. The next set of move should get you to the finish but there not straight forward. You outside edge your right foot on a small slopper and then reach high for a finger slot and pocket for your thumb with you right hand then bump you left foot onto the bottom edge of the arrete and force you way back across the arrete to left again and reach high for a small three finger crimp, hold that position and bump you left foot up the arrete again to a small foothold. Now you can reach again for the next slightly better crimp with you left hand then with a careful foot change you can rock over on the right leg you can catch a decent slopper and then gently reach the final hold or the tree root, Done!

Having tried the moves that evening, on my first go I could barely do the moves. This made what I had watched Nick do even more impressive. Having had two session on the route and done all the moves it was my turn to have a go. With the addition of a second peg now, I tied on with a rope clipped into each peg thinking I would not make it passed these. I made it through the first hard sequence and I was holding the two finger pockets and the pegs in front of my face, I made next power slap to the gaston and it stuck barely and then went straight into laying of the arrete! The pegs were now at my feet, what should I do. I knew the next moves were still hard I looked at the next hold then at the pegs then at the holds again. I bottled it, shouted take and slumped onto the pegs. I was happy though , it felt good to do all those moves.

Inside Wolf Mountain

After all the Video clips of Climbing outside , I thought it was time to show you want goes on inside Wolf Mountain Climbing Center.

Another Bank Holiday Weekend

With another bank holiday weekend and some glorious weather gave us all a chance to get out and get some problem's/Route's ticked. Here is a brief account of who did what.

First off Tim Palmer did Zeke the Feak (8b) at Rubicon. A first for him at the Grade



Next Wolf Friend and Local Legend Dick Dixon has completed his new route at Nesscliffe. Hopefully I will get some more info on this soon. Outstanding effort.

Then in North Wales down Llanbreis pass I managed to do Bus Stop (7c/v9), sorry no Video apart from mt Failed Attempts. Deb almost managed this too just slipping on the last couple of moves, should go next time.












Leslie did Cave Route (7a)( also Louise did this) and Route Side Basic (7a).

And Finally unlucky Sie after spending most of the weekend on Cromlech Roof Crack (7a+) had to admit defeat at the end. But he did almost do it, just failing on the last couple of moves.

Churnet Valley

Churnet Valley is a small bouldering (and Traditional Routes) Venue that is quite local but not frequented by a large number of people. This makes it a ideal trip out if you feel like getting away from the usual crowds. The Boulder problems are spread out through out the Valleys forest (feels a bit like Font but with out the sand). Most of the problems are concentrated around Wrights Rock and Gentlemen's Rock. But if you are prepared to look further there are other little gems to be found.

Anyway I found myself there this weekend with lance, Lou and Leslie. The Weather was nice a warm but the Forest kept us in the shade. First we head over to Ousal Traverse ( Font 7a). Leslie had a score to settle has the day before she had fell off the final moves. It is a fiddly long traverse with the moves getting harder and harder the further you get. We all had a play but gave in apart from Leslie who stuck with it and after a few goes it was in the bag. Check out the Video below of her earlier attempts

Next we move onto a new boulder for me, Lance had been before and wanted to finish off a problem he had been trying. The problem was called Propeller Head (Font 7a) and as we walked up the hill to it through the trees we could the striking overhang and arête. After falling off the last move on my second go I quickly worked out a sequence that would work. Lance went up a did it first then I followed him. Leslie and Lou a quick play but one found a reachy move and other could not quite crimp the pebble.

The next obvious line was on the right side of the arête Google Earth (Font 7a /7b). This problem was proving to be slightly harder and it wasn’t helped with pebbles breaking off all the time. I finally worked out a sequence (after a quick phone call to the first ascentist). It seemed a pebble had fallen off since the first ascent, but it was still possible to do the original line and two other variations of the finish. Directly up the arête being the hardest and right of the arête with slopper in right hand then again easier with slopper in the left hand. Lance and Leslie (she did complete the left hand slopper version) both got close and I managed to finish the arête problem from standing. I tried to repeat it from the low start for the video but I was too tired.

There are some other lines there too but did not get chance to try them. The 7c looking awesome through the centre of roof and the also a new line up a thin seam/ripple. Maybe next time , but I must remember the midge spray

Next we popped over to Gentlemen’s Rock to catch up with some old friends. I did a new 6c just right of High Speed Impact (Font 7a) which was nice Lance tried both of these but was tired and called it a day. I also tried a new massive dyno but could not latch the hold and another 7b High ball but I was now too tired too and call it a day.

New Routes

New routes 1 - 13 (featured routes in main room) set by Mark Croxal range between 4 and 6b, with a tricky little 5+ on wall 2. This route is will test your balance as the crimped holds definitely make you dance using all the natural features for your feet!


Also the over hang room, routes 23 – 36, has been reset ranging between 4 and 7b, the 7b being the beige set on the overhang (wall 35) proving tougher than it’s predecessor. The favourite route by far proving to be the 6a+ blues and volumes skirting the edge of the over hang (wall 34) forcing you into awkward shapes and trusting moves - if the rope is free, definitely worth giving a go!

BMC Youth Climbing Series Round 3

Well done to all the young people that competed in the BMC Youth Climbing Series! Wolf Mountain had 27 young people competing which was just under half of all entrants for the Midlands Region. They all performed brilliantly and were a credit to themselves and Wolf Mountain. Eighteen people qualify from the Midlands for the British finals and seven of them are Wolf Mountain climbers.

Girls 8-10

Imogen Porter 2nd (Qualified)
Sophie Perrin 4th
Rebecca Lawton 5th
Katie Marshall 6th
Aofie Mcadam 7th
Georgia Woodcock 8th
Jodie Flowers 10th
Boys 8 -10

Dominic Vincent 1st (Qualified)
George Morris 2nd (Qualified)
Ciran Poole 4th
Menzies Campbell 6th
Girls 11 -13

Molly McAdam 4th
Carla Lambert 5th
Olivia Bolas 6th
Bethany Lim 8th
Ashleigh Bryant 9th

Boys 11 -13

Duncan Fisher 1st (Qualified)
Zack Porter 2nd (Qualified)
Jack Dyer 3rd (Qualified)
Jack Walker 6th
James Sharman 7th
Ben Perrin 8th
Jonathan Murphy 9th
Bradley Morris 11th
Tom Lawton 13th
Girls 14- 16

Libby Dodd 3rd (Qualified)
Emma Knight 4th
We wish all the qualifiers all the best for the finals which are being held in London.