Monday, October 19, 2009

*** NEWS FLASH ***

On Saturday I finally managed to Redpoint Caviar (F8a+) on Rubicon wall at Water-Cum-Jolly. I have been trying this over the summer this year and been struggling the learn the moves and fighting against the warm conditions. But I finally got to the point a month or so ago I felt like I was in the position to try and lead the the route, up until then I had only top rope it.
The route is quite condition depend and it needs to be cool for a good attempt. The start is kind of technical and balancy for a couple of moves and then it gets steeper on good holds to a good flake and good left hand pocket ( to here is a Font 7b boulder problem). The angle begins to ease off here and you make a long move to good pinch hold. Then quickly move your feet way out right and slap your left hand to a very small two finger crimp, move your feet again to back step your left on top of the flake. Your left hand slaps again to a higher but better crimp. Move you feet again, rock over on your right foot and flag your left and then power scream to another small right hand crimp (for me this was the hardest move). It's not over yet , stand your left foot in the pocket at the top of the boulder problem and then right hand comes over the top of your left to the two finger spike, re adjust left foot and reach right hand to a good flat edge and then slap into the big horn with you right hand and re-position feet and clip the third bolt ( I had chosen to pre clip the first 2 bolts). In theory the that's the route done one more bolt and then the lower off. But I was pumped and although the next set of holds are big jugs I was fighting to recovery. I rested for a bit then went up to clip the fourth bolt and down climbed to rest a bit longer , I had one more tricky move to do to get through the final bulge. I went for it matched on the under cut crossed over the with my right hand the finger jug, it felt small because i was so tired, twist into an egyptian and reached for the better jug, but I was tired could reach to the hold I would normally get so I had to hold that and cross over the top again then reach for the top of the bulge rock up and I was there clipping the lower , my first 8a+!
Thanks to Deb for her belaying and support.

Check out these earlier videos - one and two

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