Thursday, November 27, 2008

New Boulder Problems

Mark Croxall has reset the Main Bouldering with 26 new problems to try. Hopefully we will shortly add some more problems.


Monday, November 24, 2008

Rotherham Junior Bouldering Comp

Recently some of the Kids from the Sunday Kids club were invited to take part in the Rotherham Climbing wall Junior Bouldering Comp.

They had a great day and I think they all learned something ready for the next BRYCS. Sorry I do not really have any results apart Emma who came third. Nice one Emma!

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Top Bouldering Wall Being Reset

The Top boulder area will be closed Tue 25th of this month for strippin as Marks in on the Wed 26th to re-set.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Sunday, November 9, 2008

New Route's Set

Steve as reset the kids/warm up bouldering wall on Monday (inc a two handed Dyno). Nice easy routes, fab for kids and good for warming up/down plus a cute traverse. Also put up a couple of new routes on panels 17 (red), 6b+/6c and 18 (beige), 6c+/7a.

Day 6 -7

Day 6 - The Sky was clear and ground seemed dry so we all rushed off to find some dry rock. Me, Deb, Lance, Lou, Steve, Robin and Steph ended up at La Gorge aux Chats. After warming people turned then attentions to the projects. Most wanted to try Sa Pelle au Logis (Fnt 7a), but the weather had other ideas as it started rain. We quickly covered the top holds to keep them dry and they carried on working the bottom moves. Rob went back to working Rubis sur l'Ongle (Fnt 7b+) so I joined in after trying this the year before I wonder how I would be do. Mean while others were still trying Sa Pelle au Logis (Fnt 7a). Lance managed to repeat all of this apart from the top out as it was still covered, Lou worked a good sequence and did all apart from the last hard move. With a quick break in the rain we uncovered the top holds and Deb managed to do the problem including topping out on the damp slopers. I pulled onto Rubis sur l'Ongle as it started to rain again but kept going , I got to my high point and got my foot on the crucial foot hold and popped to the "ruby" hold. To my surprise caught it and realised I could not let go and have to finshed it now. With it still raining I managed to carry on and get to the top.

Mean while the others had gone to Cuisiniere to try Bettle Juice. Progress was made but no one did it. The rain was not helping and fun was had trying the black 4 next to it and topping out in the wet and using the log on the top.

Day 7 - The last day, some had to leave early to catch the ferry home. Other's had some time for one last climb. Most headed of to Bas Curvier but no luck was had although Robin came close to Duroxmanie again but fell of the top again. Tam had gone to Cul de Chein to try le Toit Cul de Chien (Fnt 6c) but didn;t have enough left to finish it. Me And Deb had other plans as headed of to Apremont, we got there to find perfect condition. Typical last day with good condition. Deb went straight to Jeremiades assis (Fnt 7a+) , she had a score to settle. After warming up and getting close she still could not make the crucial move. She Decided to change her sequence, this was it the key had been found. Have after a good rest she slapped the top hold and it was over. We still had 2 hours left before we need to leave so we rushed over to Retablissement (Fnt 7a). She had got close in the dark a couple days earlier but it was to late she was tired and skins was too sore. I decided to quickly decided to try L'Hyper Plomb (Fnt7a) which I had tried the year before with no joy. But after a few goes and some local beta I was topping out and it was done. Time to packed up and go home.

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Day 5

Day 5 we hoped would bring good weather as reported but we woke to see the forest covered in a thick fog and drizzling raining. We all set off to find some dry rock, half the team ended up at Bas Cuvier and the rest went to Hautes Plaines. At Hautes Plaines there was a few dry problem but not many. This half team split into two, Deb, Steve and B set off to walk (what turned out to be a mini adventure) to Cuisiniere to try and find more dry rock. Lou and Steph stayed to work on left sit start to Surplomb de la Coquille (Fnt7a). Lance managed to do this and then started to work the right sit start (Fnt 7a+) with robin. They both got close but couldn't quite do it. I repeated this to show them the Beta and then did the Dyno finsh to this Problem. I also tried Mur Lombard the day before which was just up the path so I went back to do this, which I did topping out onto the very wet top. I then decided to try Deux Faux Plis en Plats Reels (fnt 7b+) overhang as it was dry and looked a really nice line. But is was hard and I had no beta and struggled to make any progress on the last two moves.

By now it was midday and decided to go and catch up with the others at Cuisiniere who had found most of Bettle Juice(Fnt7a) was dry. B was doing really well of black 4 (fnt 6a) next to this but the top was so wet you could not top out. Steve and Lou managed to do this all but topping out. Steve, Deb, Rob and Lance all had a go at working the sequence for Bettle Juice, but only Deb managed to all the moves up until it was to wet.

Next we thought we would catch the other team up at Bas Cuvier for the last hour of light. We found them as we thought under Canarge boulder. They (Sam, Adam, Sie, Tam) had spent most of the day ( apart from a short detour looking for Apremont and not finding it) throwing themselves at Helicoper (fnt 7a) know in the dark with head torches but with no luck. Dean again had spent most the day trying Carnage (Fnt 7b+) but had now success. I quickly tried Le Biceps Mou (Fnt 7b) but the holds were still a bit damp. So I went back to see if I could repeat Carnage to help Dean with beta, which I did and then just as we thought he had had enough he had one more go, off a doubled up matt and forced his way to the top.

But the biggest question of the day was all about reach?

More Photo's

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Day 4

Rain , Rain and More Rain over night and every was looking wet. So a slow start to the day by every one. Robin , Steph, Steve and B went to Cuvier Est and found Duroxmanie dry which Robin almost did. Sam , Dean ,Tam and Adam went to Cuvier and after warming up on La marie-rose (Fnt 6a) which Sam and Dean did. Next moved on to throw themselves at Helicopter (Fnt 7a) but none did it. Dean was trying Carnage (Fnt 7b+) and got really close slipping off the boss. Myself , Deb, Lance and Lou check out a few new areas while waiting for it to dry and and ended the day at Hautes Plaines on Lapin au Carnard (Fnt 6c+). Myself and Lance managed this with Deb almost Flashing but again reach and Injury got the better of her.

Monday, November 3, 2008

Stamina Tunnel Reset

J has reset the ceiling on the stamina this evening, yellow and flou yellow/lime/thingy complete, oranges to go up in the morning. Fat yellows are a little trickier than last time but all looking good! Flou. Yellows have a sit start!

Day 3

Again we woke to a dry sunny day with no overnight rain, great. Myself , Deb, Lance and Lou headed off to Apremont. Lou wanted to try Crazy House Standing (Fnt 7a) and Concept (Fnt 6c) again but after several goes on each wasn't getting very far. Lance had gone of to try Egoists, failed again. whislte they were doing that me and Deb tried Gauche but it was reachy , just could not manage the last move. We then moved for Deb to try Jeremiades (fnt 7a+) sit start after a few good goes almost doing it but an injury and tiredness set in. Next Lance wanted to try Fluer de Rhum (Fnt 7a+), but again could not do it. I managed to repeat Crazy Horse Standing and Then did Clin d'CEil ( Fnt 6c+) and then managed to do Retablissement (Fnt 7a) just as it was going dark.

The others again went else where Rob did Surplomb de la Coquille left (Fnt 7a). Dean and Tam managed to do Lapin du Canard (Fnt 7a) at Franchard Hautes-Plaines. Adam and Sam did Le P'tit Toit / Le Tourniquet (Fnt 6c) at 95.2

Day 2

We woke early again on Monday after a lot of heavy rain in the evening to find to our surprise a bright and sunny day. So with much expectation we stuck to our original plan and I, Deb, Lance and Lou set off for Bas Cuvier to warm up. We got there to see everything was wet! We decided to continue as planned and headed for Rempart and hoped it was dry. There were a few things dry! I warm up on black 28, no idea what it was, then me and Deb Decided to try Haut Tension (Fnt 7c+), boy is this hard, the top holds were impossible to hold so we gave up. Lance and Lou had headed back down to see if Festin De Pierre (Fnt 7a) was dry but as we meet up with them again it was clear it wasn’t. We need to find some dry rock. As we looked the guide to find some quick drying areas we decided to check out St Germain, but this wasn’t in could condition so late in the day we rushed to Mount Ussy for the last couple of hours of light. We want to check out Ussy Cat (Fnt 7a+) , a must with a name like that and it did not disappoint. A steep overhanging flake high enough the French had pitons in it. I decide to give it a go, second go saw me get the high pocket but not sure what to do drop off. After getting a few more mat’s and spotter’s managed to force my way to through the scary top out. Deb and Lou had found a nice traverse called Le Pro s’talque (Fnt 6a+). Deb quickly dispatched this and Lou was so close as it was getting dark we put our head torches so she could finish it off. After a scary fall on to her back on a boulder of the last move, she picked herself and calmly started again and this time got to the top.
The others went else where, Dean managed to finish off L’Oblique (Fnt 7a) and went on do to Gaviton (Fnt 7a) at Roche aux sobats. Sam went to Cul de Chein and did le Toit Cul de Chien (Fnt 6c). Robin and Steph had a good session at La Gorge aux chats trying Rubis sur l’Ongle and they plan to go back.

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Day 1

After a long days traveling down on Sat with rain al the way as we got the gite (Maionbleau) early evening the rain cleared and the weather report for the next day looked promising. We woke early sunday morning to see sunny clear blue sky and off we went to 95.2. After warm up we turned are attention to the problem steph and robin wanted to try again, Retour aux Sources (fnt 7a). Steph and Robin started working the problem and we took advantage of the Beta. I almost flashed tthis on my first go but fall off the last move, but managed to send it second go. Lance managed to send it not long after. The rest were really close but not quite and vowed to come back and try again. Whilst this was happening Dean managed to do Tentation (Fnt 7a), we I also send after a few goes. Sie Flashed Le P'tit Toit / Le Tourniquet (Fnt 6c) and Adam got it second go.

Next we all moved on to Roche aux Sabots. Me and Deb went to try Bien Zen (Fnt 7a+), I did all the moves but couldn't quiet link it. Deb did the top and the bottom, but had trouble with the long move in the middle of the crux. Lance and Robin tried Jet Set but again couldn't quite hit the top, I managed to repeat this again after a few goes. Dean also did L'Oblique (Fnt 7a), but it was so dark he could not see the holds.

Check out the Photo's From This link.