Wednesday, September 30, 2009

New Boulder Problems

Mark Croxall was in on Tuesday and has set 27 new boulders fro you all to try. There is the usual mix of easy and really hard problem to frustrate you all. Hopefully next Monday Evening myself and Deb are planning to set some more problems for you too try as well.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Chillin on the Grit

After my success on Saturday on Out of my tree we decided to take it easy on Sunday and have a nice day on the gritstone. So we meet up with Joe and Claude at Trackside boulder at Curbar. It was still in the shade so we warmed up on the classic problems there, Trackside, Strawberries etc. Claude was still trying Strawberries ( classic fnt 6a, you either love or hate) she has done all the moves now and got really close. I am sure she will do this soon, certainly before Joe will.#

Joe on Trackside

As it started to warm we decide to check out Rowtor Rocks as it would be a bit shady and cooler.
Joe wanted to try Blood Falls (Fnt 7b) it was a bit warm but OK. Joe had a few good goes but couldn't quite do all the moves. I managed to repeat it as I had done the last year and Deb was getting really close but not quite making the long last move, next time. Claude wanted to try a Fnt 6a that she had tried before but was struggle on the first move, But after a bit of beta and some more goes she managing to get all the way to the end but not quite mantle out the top.
Next we moved on to Short Sean's Reachy Roof ( Fnt 7a and reachy it is). First a quick play on the Fnt 6a+ next to it. I quickly worked out the beta and did but Joe was struggling with the start , he could reach the holds round the lip but could not quite hold on long enough to move his feet up. I am sure he will get it next time. I decide to have a go at the Fnt 7a+ eliminate (sans block) . I pretty much flashed it to the last move but just could not do the the last move. After playing around on the last move for a while I still could not do it , so one last go. What a mistake as I pulled and slipped a crystal ripped and slit in my index finger , doh! and I land on my ass missing all the mats. Came over lets go to the Pub.

Check out the Video

As it was my birthday on Tuesday myself and Deb were up there two more days, great! So Monday we set of to Water-Cum-Jolly as I wanted to try and Redpoint Caviar (F8a+) and Deb was going to get on Dangerous Brother's (f8a). The Condition were could nice and cool , but I wasn't I had done too much the day before ( chillin on the grit) and my finger was quite sore. Never mind I just got on with it , with a bit on super clue, I was doing ok and but after three or four goes I was shattered and my skin couldn't take it any more.
Next up Deb, she had tried this route a last year briefly and done really well on it but not done the first reachy move. After a few goes she had worked out the first move and then quickly worked out the rest and top roped in three overlapping section. But it was late and we were tired so we decided to come back tomorrow.

Dangerous Brother F8a & Cavair F8a+

Tuedays morning came round our last day over cast and slightly damp. Good we thought it should stay cool. But first off to the outside cafe in Hathersage for breakfast and then to Water-Cum-Jolly again. It was still overcast , cool and damp so we set the ropes up. Deb had another top rope of her route just to make sure she knew what she was doing. Next up my turn to try and redpoint Caviar , I was felling tired and not up for it but I would have a go anyway but then the weather turned on us, the sun came out and it got really hot , too hot for my route so after a quick go I sacked it off.
Deb on the other hand had had a good rest and luckily some cloud cover came across , so she went for a redpoint. She managed to get the first two clips and then just missed doing the crux move. She got back on and too the top not bad f8a with one rest, next time. By now we were tired again and had the long drive back to Wolverhampton.

check out the Video of Me falling off Caviar

Sunday, September 20, 2009

I am "Out of My Tree"

Finally I have completed a route at Raven Tor in the Peak District. After going to this crag over the years and trying different routes and never quite being able to do the crux moves on any I tried. Over the last few weeks though I have been Working on Out Of My Tree (8a) and after finally doing the crux move last weekend I new this could be the one.
So after arriving on late afternoon on Saturday to get cooler conditions a quickly worked the easy top section to warm up. I then had a few goes on the boulder problem start (Fnt 7b). Then after a rest i completed the route on my first redpoint.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

New Video's

I have uploaded a few more of my video's to you tube to inspire you to get out climbing.
The weather is cooling down and the nights are drawing in and the end of the summer has come. Gritstone season is nearly hear.

Check out the video's

A few Problems at Newstones, Staffordshire Grit

Nick on Pebble Mill Traverse, Burbage South Edge, Fnt 7a

Nick On Imagination , Nesscliffe , Shropshire E3 6a

Deb on Demon roof wall, Almscliff

Deb on Edges wall , Cromlech Boulders

Nick on Thin Air at the Roaches.

Various clips of routes from Portland Bill.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

New Routes Set

Myself , Deb , Jay and Andy have reset Panels 1 to 9 . There are about 20 new routes mostly easier grades. But the are a few tricky ones, like the Grey and Purple on Panel 6 (may be a touch reachy) and the hardest of the bunch being Black on Panel 7 (and it is not reachy as it was set and climbed by Deb 5'3")

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

My Climbing Series

This year see's a new Youth Climbing Competition for the Midlands Area.

MY (Midlands Youth) Climbing Series

The 4th round of this event will be held at Wolf Mountain on the 10th Jan 2010.

Check out the Link below and get your entry forms in

So get training hard now!

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

*** NEWS FLASH ***

The Big news is that Deb has Finally realised a life time ambition to climbing French 8a

On Monday evening in some what not ideal conditions (a humid 20Deg) Deb managed to comfortably red pointed Hot Fun Closing (F8a) at Water-Cum-Jolly.

Unfortunaly we did not get it on video but you can see a previous attempt on this old blog link.

I will try and post some the old footage when I can sort this out.

Well Done again and well deservered.

A Weekend in the Peak

A weekend in the Peak was successful for some of our friends from the wall.

Joe on Saturday (his birthday) , managed to repoint Rubicon Wall (F7a+) at Water-cum-Jolly
and on Monday managed to complete the boulder problem Trackside (Fnt7a) at Cubar.

Joe On Rubicon Wall 7a+

Here a link to Joe's Video's

On Sunday Claudette did her first Fnt 6a+ at Stanage.

Also on Saturday Sie also quickly repointed Rubicon Wall (F7a+) after Joe.

Now Tim has move upto leeds but he has not been forgotten and we bumped in to him at Raven Tor where he quickly repointed Rattle and Hump (F8a).

I managed to complete on Monday a Boulder Problem WeedKiller Direct(Fnt7b+) (not the sit start though) at Raven Tor

WeedKiller Direct 7b+