Leslie quickly tried the moves to refresh her memory and get the clips in. She made the moves easily and after rest went for her first redpoint of the day. She cruised to the crux and went for the long move, but did not quite latch it and tried again and caught it ,but then couldn't quite force the next move and she was off. After another rest she got back and again cruise up through the crux to the chains. See the video below
Mean While Timmy had put the clips in Zeak the Feak and had started to work the moves again. He had tried this already earlier this year and had decided to try and lead it as it a pain to work on a top rope. He managed to do all the moves and link the crux moves too. But the the problem was making the clips. After trying a few times he was getting tired and the sun was making the holds a bit sweaty he decide to stop. He has sorted all the moves and decided to miss one clip out, so hopefully next time he will get it done.
While the rope was up I decide that I would give it a go on a top rope. The start is steady until you reach the bulge and the start of the crux then the holds get smaller and after a couple of egyptians you get either a ridiculous small crimp (that Timmy uses) and or a sloper with a thumb sprag. Neither really helping me make the long reach to the next hold. After various attempts I decided I could not do this move and pulled past it. Then from this there is a couple of tricky moves to a jug and then a couple of strenuous moves to the chain. I must work on my holding small holds. Next I seconded Rubicon to get the clips out. I also managed to repeat Kudos wall Traverse (Fnt 7b) and Caviar Start (fnt 7b).
Deb had another go out Hot Fun Closing (Fr 8a) but is still struggling with a bit of a Bicep injury , although she still cruising the bottom section and the top moves but just the long move is causing a few problems. This is a really shame and a few weeks back she got all the way to the last but one hold and slip off the crap sloper (which I can not even hold). Check out the Video below.
Tim's friend James managed to flash Rubicon and then had a play on Hot Fun Closing on a top rope and then went for a redpoint. He did well and forced his way through the bottom section to the break and then failed at the same point as Deb, that lonnng move to the crimp.
The day came to an end as it started to go dark and we hatch a plan to head for north wales and Llanberis pass on Sunday and headed off on the long drive home.
We woke up Sunday feeling tired but we had said we would meet them in the pass so we set off, also knowing Lance and Lou would be there spurred us on. The long 2 1/2 Hour journey seemed to take forever but will finally made there. Being bank holiday weekend it was rammed and after drive up a down the pass a few times we finally found some where to park. We started as usual warming up at the Cromlech boulders on the ramp on roadside. Deb Flashed Edges wall again , as usual, Myself and Lance has to have a few goes. Our Fingers were still sore from the day before and we all failed on johnny's wall. Lou Was doing well on her problem but could quite link it and split a tip.
Next we moved on to a problem Lance had been trying the day before Ultimate Retro Party (fnt 7b). It looked good and we had not tried it before. Lance showed us the beta and after a few more goes lance latched the top holds, his second font 7b. I was struggling on this , it felt quite hard or I was more tired from the day before then I thought. But I kept trying and choose another sequences missing out the small holds and powering between the better holds, and it paid off and I managed to get to the top. Next up was Deb and she quickly worked out another sequence and on her third go she was also topping out. While all this was going on it had been hailing on and off, it was like a winters day with a really cold wind blowing. Just to thing the day before we had been complaining it was too hot.
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By this time Timmy and Leslie had arrived and after quickly warming , we left Lou and Leslie at roadside the rest of us head down to Jerry's Roof area. Timmy wanted to try Mr Fantastic (Fnt 8a+) again and I wanted to try Bus Stop (Fn 7c) and Deb wanted to try this and Jerry's Roof ( fnt 7c). Timmy started well by repeating both Jerry's roof and Bus Stop, then set to work on Mr Fantastic. The problem links the two previous problems together by starting on Jerry's roof and staying low and going into Bus Stop and finishing up this. Unfortunately he did not quite do it , he kept slipping out of the toe hook, but he was happy that it felt better than last time and he felt he was almost there.
Next I started trying Bus Stop, I had tried this before a while ago but could not remember much. Timmy showed me the beta , but I was finding it harder than I expected. I kept trying and although I was making progress I didn't really feel like it was one I was going to do. Luckily I had a flash of inspiration and a local confirm my beta for the long move was all wrong. After few more goes a this long move I could catch the finger jug (and not the stupid sloppy pocket as Timmy suggest). It felt like it was on and after quite a few one last goes I was getting really close, but I was just too tired.
Mean While Deb and been working on the two problems too. Bus Stop for Deb has a long move at the start that she almost did but the top section that I struggle with, Deb was making look easy. Definitely one she should do next time we are back there. Also on Jerry's Roof she again was making good progress, she has tried this before and the is a big move in the middle where most people come unstuck she almost did after exchanging beta with Mina on the part she could not do and Deb could. Again this should be another problem that she should get soon.
By now we were all cold and tired and called it a day and headed of home.
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