Tuesday, March 31, 2009

BMC Youth Climbing Series Round 2

Round 2, West Midlands Area, held at Redpoint Climbing Center, Birmingham

28th March was the 2nd round of the BYCS and the Junior Team Wolf were there again.
They all had another great day and the results are shown below

Boys 8-10
George Morris 1st
Dominic Vincent 2nd

Girls 8-10
Imogen Porter and
Sophie Perrin joint 1st

Boys 11-13
Duncan Fisher 1st
Zack Porter 2nd
Jack Dyer 3rd
Jack Walker 5th

Girls 11-13
Molly McAdam 4th
Bethany Lim 5th

Girls 14-16
Emma Knight 3rd

For Full Results see the Here

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Last few Days in Font

Thursday saw us head over to Isatis to check a few new things. To warm up and give Rob some beta did Composition des Forces directe (Fnt 6c), rob didn't do it put almost, still not recovered from 5 days climbing in Font. Next I got on Surprise (fnt 7b), thankfully Neil H (Maison Bleau Owner) to give me some beta for the start. It was not the best conditions but Neil was almost there, but I still have no idea how to do the next move. Then it decided to rain so game over for that problem. We next headed over the back of Isatis to try the problem rob had done last week as he wanted to try the Fnt 7c Extension to it. Whilst waiting for the rain to clean myself and lance did De Brevitate Vitae (Fnt 7a). Rob quickly work out the extension by of Iceberg Raccourci by was running out of power to complete the whole thing. I am sure with some rest and better conditions he will do this. We all had a play on the stand up version (Fnt 7a+) but conditons were not the best and the on and off rain was not helping. I rest to do the standing version and then tried the sit version but could not make last crucial move.
Deb had been resting all day so we headed back over for her to try Magic Bus again she was doing really well again and also found a better way of doing the crux, but still couldn't quite catch the the jug. Day over.

Friday now and after a slow start we headed over to Magic bus again with high hopes of the new beta. But after a few hours still no luck and a very tired Deb she decide to stop and rest until the next day. So we headed over to Bas Cuvier so I could get back on Duroxmanie which I had tried last year. I warmed up by doing the left hand stand version (Fnt 6c) then i tried the standing direct version (Fnt 7a+) which I quickly did. Next the sit version (Fnt 7b) which just added and few more moves, so after few more goes another 7b in the bag. Next Deb had a quick play on Carnage sit start (Fnt 7c) but was struggle with tape slipping on the crimp. I had a quick play on La Berezina but after also most doing the crux and being tired I stopped. Just before it went dark Lance after a few goes did Super Forge(Fnt 7a), a high crimpy slab , right up Debs street. She almost flashed it getting almost to the finishing jug but just not being able to reach it because of her shortness. By now it was dark so we headed back to the gite.

Last day and we did not need to leave until 8pm so we had plenty of time. After another slow start and a trip to Decathlon to get some hand warmers to keep Debs hands warm we headed back to Magic Bus(Fnt 7b+) for one last go. After making sure her finger was taped up well after shredding it earlier in the week on this problem. She warmed up and practice a few moves, including the crux. Then after a few full goes it was do and in the bag so quick and easy, it shows what rest can do. We now still had plenty of time left and I made a snap decision to go and try L'Aerodynamite (Fnt 7b+). I had nearly done this two trips ago falling off the last move but the last trip I could not even repeat the start. So I got there to find three nice french guys trying the sit start version. After a couple of goes at the jump start version I was struggling again. So I decided to join in with the french guys, I quickly was getting higher from the sit then the jump start and got very excited because L'Aerodynamite Assis(Fnt 8a) and this would be my first 8a. So from the sit I got all the way up to the almost the top and I was up there for ages trying to get a proper grip of the top hold. I just could not get a grip and I could feel my foot slipping then it was over I was off, DAMN! So I thought a good rest and give it another go. But the weather had other ideas, it started to rain so I quickly jump on, to late not enough rest and damp holds. We went back to the van to rest and shelter from the rain and see if it would pass over. It did briefly pass to have a couple more goes, I got to my high point once but still not enough and then heavens opened and it was game over and we head back home.

While all this was happening, Steph and flown over for the weekend and she managed to do Sa Pelle au Logis (Fnt 7a) at La Gorge aux Chats and Retablissement (Fnt 7a) at Apremont est.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Day 4

A quick Blog today. Very wet over night and rain in the morning so headed for Drei Zinnen as it dries quickly and we had some stuff to do there. I did Ordslie assis (Fnt 7a+) because is was dry roof climbing and topping put in the wet. Deb managed to do Diversion assis (Fnt 7b). I also managed to do La Fosse aux Oreilles ( Fnt 7b), with some help with Beta from deb again. Then we both thought we did Tourments d'Amour (Fnt 7a+) , but we found out later it was an un-named Fnt 6c next to it. Then to end the day I had a quick play on Multipass (Fnt 7b) , I did quite well but was a bit tired by then but will go back as it was a great problem.

Check out the Video

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Day 3

Seeing how it was Rob's rest (enforced after 5 days on and alot bicep pain). I shall fill you in on the days events. After some french guys tellings us last night there was five days of rain forecast. We woke late to find the nights rain had cleared up and it was still dry and head off to Buthiers. Lance wanted to try Nemesis (fnt 7a), so I joined in to warm up. Lance was doing well but not catching the crucial hold, took me a while to get to the same point. But after many goes and loads of different methods we both gave in defeated by a reachy problem. Next for the main event, Magic Bus (Fnt 7b+). Rob gave us the beta and me a Deb set to work. Deb flash it to the last but one move, but this move was going to be her crux. I on the other hand was struggle on a lower move. I skipped past that for a while to try the end moves, right my street, jumpy. This bit is easy for me. So after few goes at my crux deb had to step in and tell me what I was doing wrong. After few more goes I knew I could do it all. After a rest it was done. Deb set to working her crux the jumpy bit. After a few different methods she had worked out a way to do this. So she tried to put it all together put was just powering out for the jump move and had managed to ripped a chunk out of her finger. She decide to rest and come back later. So we went over to Gorge aux Chats to catch up with Lance and Lou. Whilst Deb had a power napped in the Van I managed to do Opera Tchechene (Fnt 7a) arrete very nice little problem. Now back to Magic Bus for Deb. After warming up again and always getting the same point on the jump move and not quiet latching the hold she decide to try a different method for the jump move. Sorted much more consistent but with failing light and another chunk out of her finger she decide to call it a day and come back another day.

Font Time Again

Yes is that time of year again and we are in Font forest again. Myself, Deb, Lance and Lou have gone out to spend a week with Rob who has been out here for three weeks already. So instead of both us blogging check out His BLOG.

We have had great weather so far and a great start.

Hopefully I will be Uploading some video's has regular as I can.

Day's 1 & 2

Monday, March 16, 2009

Nemesis Finally completed

With Spring here and the first perfect limestone conditions this year we headed off to Rubicon at water-cum-jolly in the Peak District. The sun was shining and the cool breeze kept the rock cool. There was a big crowd on kudos wall, so plenty of mats , spotters and encouragement. I hadn't really gone out with any aim in mind, other than put a rope on Caviar to look at the top move while Deb's worked on her project, but it was wet. After a shaky start and quite a few goes on Kudos (Fnt 7a), the hardest 7a in the world. So next after a rest I tried the traverse of Kudos wall , which starts up Kudos but then traverses right across some crimps and to finish on the finishing jug of the Press. On my first go I got half way across but missed the crucial crimp. But I felt strong and on my Second go I was hanging off the Finishing Jug with ease ( Fn7b). After resting and belaying Deb on her project. I thought I would try Bigger Splash Direct (Fn 7b), Normally it takes ages to pull on the first move , but I did this straight away then after a few goes it was done. So feeling strong I decided to give the Press (Fnt 7b+) a go, I have tried this on and of for a while now but never done very well on it. My first go felt OK and after couple more goes I was actually hitting the crimp which I had never done before. Then I had a go and slapped the finishing jug but not enough to hold it. So after a quick rest and the video camera out and another go saw me hit the jug and hold it. I could go home happy.

See video here

Monday, March 9, 2009

BMC Youth Climbing Series 2009

Round 1, West Midlands Area, held at Bear Rock Climbing Centre, Warwick

Saturday was the 1st round of the BYCS and the Junior Team Wolf were there in strength.
They all had a great day and the results showed all there hard work had paided off with some good results.

Boys 8-10
Dominic Vincent & George Morris Joint 1st
Dominic winning a super climb off.
Ciaran Poole 4th
Menzies Campbell 6th

Girls 8-10
Imogen Porter 2nd
Rebecca Lawton 3rd
Sophie Perrin 5th
Kati Marshall & Aofie McAdam Joint 6th

Boys 11-13
Duncan Fisher, Zack Porter
& Jack Dyer Joint 1st
Super Climb off Duncan 1st, Zack 2nd & Jack 3rd
Jack Walker 5th
James Sharman 6th
Ben Perrin 8th
Jonathan Murphy 10th

Girls 11-13
Molly McAdam 4th
Carla Lambert 6th
Ashleigh Bryant 7th
Olvia Bolas 8th
Bethany Lim 10th

Girls 14-16
Libby Dodd 2nd
Emma Knight 4th

For Full Results see the Here

See Links above for Video Footage

Well Done to all who were involved

Friday, March 6, 2009

Roaches Ristrictions

Take from the BMC website please be aware of the new restriction at the roaches upper tier

In order to protect nesting peregrines an agreement has been reached to restrict climbing and bouldering until further notice on part of the Upper Tier at the Roaches.

The agreement was made between the BMC, the Peak National Park (PDNPA), Natural England and the RSPB, and comes into immediate effect.

The restriction applies to climbing between Libra (Route No. 32) and Easy Gully Wall (Route No. 75), and includes all the bouldering in the Sloth arena. Notices will be placed on site. All route references relate to the BMC Staffordshire Grit / The Roaches guidebook (2004).

The reaction of the birds will be monitored by the PDNPA and the BMC on a regular basis and if it proves possible to ease the bouldering restriction then this will be published on the BMC Regional Access Database and with notices on site.

Check the latest access information for The Roaches on the BMC Regional Access Database

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

More New Routes

There are now new routes in the second room and the small bouldering wall set by Mark Croxall.
Have fun

Timmy Strikes Agian

Myself , Timmy and Phil decided to meet up at Stanage on Saturday. We got there to find it all very moist. A few things dried out so we tried to warm up. A couple of goes on greens Travers (Fnt 7a) and we had a play on Captain Hook (Fnt 7b) . Tim quickly Repeated it and then Phil managed to do it. I on the other hand didn't. Then tim had a quick play on the Ace (Fnt 8b) but it was not quite cold enough. Phil wanted to have another go on Brass Monkey's (Fnt 7c) which almost done before. He started well and just needed a few more goes. After a slow start on this Tim did this see video Below

Next few goes and Phil does it too his first Fnt 7c. Not to be out out done again I gave it another goes and did all the moves , all I had to do was put my foot on and stand up. Next thing new Phil had caught me and i was on the mat, I had fell off the last move damn. Too tired to try again we moved on to try the storm(fnt 7b+) , and old nemesis. Again after a few goes I was getting to my usual high point of my fingers an inch away from the top holds but that was it. Even Tim couldn't do it ( it must be hard). By now I was tired so left for home and left them to have a go at Brad pit!

Robin's Font Trip

One of the regulars Robin Holland is now in Font for a while after quitting his job.
You can follow what he gets up to on his blog


Myself and Deb our going out to Join him for the last week in March , Can't Wait