Sunday, March 29, 2009

Last few Days in Font

Thursday saw us head over to Isatis to check a few new things. To warm up and give Rob some beta did Composition des Forces directe (Fnt 6c), rob didn't do it put almost, still not recovered from 5 days climbing in Font. Next I got on Surprise (fnt 7b), thankfully Neil H (Maison Bleau Owner) to give me some beta for the start. It was not the best conditions but Neil was almost there, but I still have no idea how to do the next move. Then it decided to rain so game over for that problem. We next headed over the back of Isatis to try the problem rob had done last week as he wanted to try the Fnt 7c Extension to it. Whilst waiting for the rain to clean myself and lance did De Brevitate Vitae (Fnt 7a). Rob quickly work out the extension by of Iceberg Raccourci by was running out of power to complete the whole thing. I am sure with some rest and better conditions he will do this. We all had a play on the stand up version (Fnt 7a+) but conditons were not the best and the on and off rain was not helping. I rest to do the standing version and then tried the sit version but could not make last crucial move.
Deb had been resting all day so we headed back over for her to try Magic Bus again she was doing really well again and also found a better way of doing the crux, but still couldn't quite catch the the jug. Day over.

Friday now and after a slow start we headed over to Magic bus again with high hopes of the new beta. But after a few hours still no luck and a very tired Deb she decide to stop and rest until the next day. So we headed over to Bas Cuvier so I could get back on Duroxmanie which I had tried last year. I warmed up by doing the left hand stand version (Fnt 6c) then i tried the standing direct version (Fnt 7a+) which I quickly did. Next the sit version (Fnt 7b) which just added and few more moves, so after few more goes another 7b in the bag. Next Deb had a quick play on Carnage sit start (Fnt 7c) but was struggle with tape slipping on the crimp. I had a quick play on La Berezina but after also most doing the crux and being tired I stopped. Just before it went dark Lance after a few goes did Super Forge(Fnt 7a), a high crimpy slab , right up Debs street. She almost flashed it getting almost to the finishing jug but just not being able to reach it because of her shortness. By now it was dark so we headed back to the gite.

Last day and we did not need to leave until 8pm so we had plenty of time. After another slow start and a trip to Decathlon to get some hand warmers to keep Debs hands warm we headed back to Magic Bus(Fnt 7b+) for one last go. After making sure her finger was taped up well after shredding it earlier in the week on this problem. She warmed up and practice a few moves, including the crux. Then after a few full goes it was do and in the bag so quick and easy, it shows what rest can do. We now still had plenty of time left and I made a snap decision to go and try L'Aerodynamite (Fnt 7b+). I had nearly done this two trips ago falling off the last move but the last trip I could not even repeat the start. So I got there to find three nice french guys trying the sit start version. After a couple of goes at the jump start version I was struggling again. So I decided to join in with the french guys, I quickly was getting higher from the sit then the jump start and got very excited because L'Aerodynamite Assis(Fnt 8a) and this would be my first 8a. So from the sit I got all the way up to the almost the top and I was up there for ages trying to get a proper grip of the top hold. I just could not get a grip and I could feel my foot slipping then it was over I was off, DAMN! So I thought a good rest and give it another go. But the weather had other ideas, it started to rain so I quickly jump on, to late not enough rest and damp holds. We went back to the van to rest and shelter from the rain and see if it would pass over. It did briefly pass to have a couple more goes, I got to my high point once but still not enough and then heavens opened and it was game over and we head back home.

While all this was happening, Steph and flown over for the weekend and she managed to do Sa Pelle au Logis (Fnt 7a) at La Gorge aux Chats and Retablissement (Fnt 7a) at Apremont est.

No comments: