Monday, October 19, 2009

*** NEWS FLASH ***

On Saturday I finally managed to Redpoint Caviar (F8a+) on Rubicon wall at Water-Cum-Jolly. I have been trying this over the summer this year and been struggling the learn the moves and fighting against the warm conditions. But I finally got to the point a month or so ago I felt like I was in the position to try and lead the the route, up until then I had only top rope it.
The route is quite condition depend and it needs to be cool for a good attempt. The start is kind of technical and balancy for a couple of moves and then it gets steeper on good holds to a good flake and good left hand pocket ( to here is a Font 7b boulder problem). The angle begins to ease off here and you make a long move to good pinch hold. Then quickly move your feet way out right and slap your left hand to a very small two finger crimp, move your feet again to back step your left on top of the flake. Your left hand slaps again to a higher but better crimp. Move you feet again, rock over on your right foot and flag your left and then power scream to another small right hand crimp (for me this was the hardest move). It's not over yet , stand your left foot in the pocket at the top of the boulder problem and then right hand comes over the top of your left to the two finger spike, re adjust left foot and reach right hand to a good flat edge and then slap into the big horn with you right hand and re-position feet and clip the third bolt ( I had chosen to pre clip the first 2 bolts). In theory the that's the route done one more bolt and then the lower off. But I was pumped and although the next set of holds are big jugs I was fighting to recovery. I rested for a bit then went up to clip the fourth bolt and down climbed to rest a bit longer , I had one more tricky move to do to get through the final bulge. I went for it matched on the under cut crossed over the with my right hand the finger jug, it felt small because i was so tired, twist into an egyptian and reached for the better jug, but I was tired could reach to the hold I would normally get so I had to hold that and cross over the top again then reach for the top of the bulge rock up and I was there clipping the lower , my first 8a+!
Thanks to Deb for her belaying and support.

Check out these earlier videos - one and two

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Down South Wales

A group of us all headed down to Swansea for the weekend as we had been invited to Deans and Phee's wedding reception on Saturday evening. We took the opportunity to head over to Dinas Rock for a days bouldering at Kenelgarth Wall before we went to the party. Myself, Deb, Sie and B had been, but Joe and Claude had not.
We meet the at the crag to find it a little damp but were determined and set to work drying the holds and get to warming up. It is only a small piece of rock but it has 20 up problems and 4 Traverse, with loads of other eliminates as well as 4 or 5 sport routes on it. The quality of the rock is solid, if a bit polished , but does suffer from a little seepage. Although it does stay dry in the rain and it is a great little venue.

Last time we were her we were trying Fat Cat Roof (v9 /Fnt7c), so we were up to try this again. Previously Deb had done all the moves and I was struggling. The story was the same again I was struggling and Deb quickly worked the top section. The crux of the problem is coming from the back of the cave to a small crimp in the roof and a heel hook to a tiny undercut in the roof next to the crimp and push right round the lip to another crimp , then swing your feet round to the lip and rock and long way to a good hold.
After a rest she decided to give it a go from the start. She easily got round the lip and two swings to the foot hold and the rock over and she cruised to the top, done. We all had a go but no one else got close.

Check out the Video
, Sorry no video of Deb as the camera person was busy having a sandwich.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

More Boulder Problems

Last night myself, Deb and Sie added 12 more boulder problems for you all to try. There are a few more easy problems and some mediums. We have also added few tricky one. There is a total of 39 problems now.

Monday, October 5, 2009

*** NEWS FLASH ***

On Sunday Afternoon Deb completed her second 8a, only six weeks after doing her first.
Again at Water-Cum-Jolly on Rubicon wall she successfully redpointed Dangerous Brother's F8a, a short but fierce finger classic ( I can't really do any of the moves). After a short session on it 18 months ago where she did all the moves but the first long move to a small three finger pocket and three more session she cruised to the top with easy.
Well Done again and well deserved after all her hard work. Watch this space hopefully more to come.