Friday, August 14, 2009

3 Men and a ledge

It was the day when ‘Pedestal’ was knocked off, ‘Black and Tan’ was tanned and ‘Rotunda’ got her buttress well and truly kicked. Even the great ‘Sloth’ turned green.
WM instructors Jim, Jay and Mike headed over to The Roaches for a bit of a play.
Base camp was at the foot of ‘The Great Slab’ on the upper tier and our arrival prompted the sun to come out and watch. He was so impressed with what he saw he stayed with us all day!
Pedestal Route was chosen for our warm up and as soon as ‘Jimmy 2 ropes’ was sorted he was off and lead a faultless climb, apart from the beginning, middle and end.
After a couple of hours Jim made himself safe and Mike and Jay quickly followed him up.
The appearance of the sun caused Mike to take his windcheater off and the appearance of a school group and two families caused jay to take his t-shirt off!!
With the temperature nudging the 80’s, Jim decided to leave his jacket on?
Black and Tan was next on the list and it was Jim’s bright idea to practice multi-pitch climbing on this 30m classic.

After a tricky start Jim soon made it up to the ledge and promptly made sure he had the most room whilst Jay who arrived second soon set up a nice patio table and recliner. Mike was less fortunate but by using a one-finger crimp on a pebble and actually sucking the wall! he managed to stay on.
The second pitch was lead by Jay who quickly disappeared from view while Mike and Jim pondered as to why he hadn’t taken the second safety rope! Oh well.
Next Jim decided to give Rotunda Buttress his full attention and stalked her base, guidebook in ond. This 18m ascent had already chewed and spat Mike and Steve on a previous visit some 3 years earlier (all be it during a horrendous hailstorm) and Jim was avin none of that!!

Before you could say “Jay, flex your muscles there’s some people coming” Jim was off and made light work of the first 10m. Then the language turned a bit blue as Jim said Hi to a couple of slopers.
The final push was made and Jim cleared the summit to much ollering n hooting, from Jim and a “what do you think you’re doing mate”? from a veteran BMC member. Well done Jim, great climb.

After a great day out we returned to WM to reflect on the day.

One of us laughed.

One of smiled.

One of us cried.

But we all agreed to do it again someday.

Monday, August 3, 2009

First Time On Real Rock

Sunday was George and Dom's first time out on real rock. We had arrange to take them and their dad's to Llanymynech quarry to show how to go about going sport climbing out on the real rock. Also there was Big Andy's and Alison, Jay, Rich and later Sie.
We had all ready had a session at the wall running through how to use a clip stick to get to the top of a climb and how to thread a lower. The sun was shinning for a change and now they had the chance to try for real. Steve (George's dad) was up first to put a rope up Sheila's Route (f5+) and with a few minders he quickly had the top rope setup.
While the rope was up it was time for George and Dom to experience there first out door climb. They both did really and managed to get to the top fairly easily apart a few complaints about it being muddy and that there weer no hands holds. Also Steve and Andy both top roped this route too there first climbing outside too.
Now it was Andy's(Dom's dad) turn to put a rope up Dirty Climb(f5+) and again managed to setup another top rope without to much hassle , apart from my dodgy clip stick. So both kids went up this route with ease.
By now Jules had arrived with Zach and Imy they both did Dirty Climb(f5+). Big Andy put a rope up Dream of White Horses, Not (f6a) Dom , George and Zach all top roped this with out too much bother. Zach had a good effort on trying to lead this and completed with a few rest. Steve decide to also top rope this and did it easily, not bad for a first time out on rock, I even think he enjoyed it more than the kids.
Big Andy also let his new route , Life begins at 40 (f7a) this time putting the clips in as he went. Jay and Sie had a play on this put both were getting totally pumped. We also put a rope on Little Weed (f7c) , Deb as usual found this easy and was doing laps on it. I was struggling climbing with a bad back and being tired so Sie and Jay had there first go of this , both doing really well, and after a few more goes Sie was nearly doing all the moves. Good effort to both as conditions were not the best with it being a bit hot and slimmy.
Cheers to everyone for and great and every one help.

Here is a link to a few Videos from the day.

Dom on Sheila's Route

George on Sheila's Route
Andy of Life Begins at 40

Photos from the day