Churnet Valley

Churnet Valley is a small bouldering (and Traditional Routes) Venue that is quite local but not frequented by a large number of people. This makes it a ideal trip out if you feel like getting away from the usual crowds. The Boulder problems are spread out through out the Valleys forest (feels a bit like Font but with out the sand). Most of the problems are concentrated around Wrights Rock and Gentlemen's Rock. But if you are prepared to look further there are other little gems to be found.

Anyway I found myself there this weekend with lance, Lou and Leslie. The Weather was nice a warm but the Forest kept us in the shade. First we head over to Ousal Traverse ( Font 7a). Leslie had a score to settle has the day before she had fell off the final moves. It is a fiddly long traverse with the moves getting harder and harder the further you get. We all had a play but gave in apart from Leslie who stuck with it and after a few goes it was in the bag. Check out the Video below of her earlier attempts

Next we move onto a new boulder for me, Lance had been before and wanted to finish off a problem he had been trying. The problem was called Propeller Head (Font 7a) and as we walked up the hill to it through the trees we could the striking overhang and arête. After falling off the last move on my second go I quickly worked out a sequence that would work. Lance went up a did it first then I followed him. Leslie and Lou a quick play but one found a reachy move and other could not quite crimp the pebble.

The next obvious line was on the right side of the arête Google Earth (Font 7a /7b). This problem was proving to be slightly harder and it wasn’t helped with pebbles breaking off all the time. I finally worked out a sequence (after a quick phone call to the first ascentist). It seemed a pebble had fallen off since the first ascent, but it was still possible to do the original line and two other variations of the finish. Directly up the arête being the hardest and right of the arête with slopper in right hand then again easier with slopper in the left hand. Lance and Leslie (she did complete the left hand slopper version) both got close and I managed to finish the arête problem from standing. I tried to repeat it from the low start for the video but I was too tired.

There are some other lines there too but did not get chance to try them. The 7c looking awesome through the centre of roof and the also a new line up a thin seam/ripple. Maybe next time , but I must remember the midge spray

Next we popped over to Gentlemen’s Rock to catch up with some old friends. I did a new 6c just right of High Speed Impact (Font 7a) which was nice Lance tried both of these but was tired and called it a day. I also tried a new massive dyno but could not latch the hold and another 7b High ball but I was now too tired too and call it a day.