Thursday, September 24, 2009

Chillin on the Grit


After my success on Saturday on Out of my tree we decided to take it easy on Sunday and have a nice day on the gritstone. So we meet up with Joe and Claude at Trackside boulder at Curbar. It was still in the shade so we warmed up on the classic problems there, Trackside, Strawberries etc. Claude was still trying Strawberries ( classic fnt 6a, you either love or hate) she has done all the moves now and got really close. I am sure she will do this soon, certainly before Joe will.#

Joe on Trackside


As it started to warm we decide to check out Rowtor Rocks as it would be a bit shady and cooler.
Joe wanted to try Blood Falls (Fnt 7b) it was a bit warm but OK. Joe had a few good goes but couldn't quite do all the moves. I managed to repeat it as I had done the last year and Deb was getting really close but not quite making the long last move, next time. Claude wanted to try a Fnt 6a that she had tried before but was struggle on the first move, But after a bit of beta and some more goes she managing to get all the way to the end but not quite mantle out the top.
Next we moved on to Short Sean's Reachy Roof ( Fnt 7a and reachy it is). First a quick play on the Fnt 6a+ next to it. I quickly worked out the beta and did but Joe was struggling with the start , he could reach the holds round the lip but could not quite hold on long enough to move his feet up. I am sure he will get it next time. I decide to have a go at the Fnt 7a+ eliminate (sans block) . I pretty much flashed it to the last move but just could not do the the last move. After playing around on the last move for a while I still could not do it , so one last go. What a mistake as I pulled and slipped a crystal ripped and slit in my index finger , doh! and I land on my ass missing all the mats. Came over lets go to the Pub.

Check out the Video

As it was my birthday on Tuesday myself and Deb were up there two more days, great! So Monday we set of to Water-Cum-Jolly as I wanted to try and Redpoint Caviar (F8a+) and Deb was going to get on Dangerous Brother's (f8a). The Condition were could nice and cool , but I wasn't I had done too much the day before ( chillin on the grit) and my finger was quite sore. Never mind I just got on with it , with a bit on super clue, I was doing ok and but after three or four goes I was shattered and my skin couldn't take it any more.
Next up Deb, she had tried this route a last year briefly and done really well on it but not done the first reachy move. After a few goes she had worked out the first move and then quickly worked out the rest and top roped in three overlapping section. But it was late and we were tired so we decided to come back tomorrow.

Dangerous Brother F8a & Cavair F8a+

Tuedays morning came round our last day over cast and slightly damp. Good we thought it should stay cool. But first off to the outside cafe in Hathersage for breakfast and then to Water-Cum-Jolly again. It was still overcast , cool and damp so we set the ropes up. Deb had another top rope of her route just to make sure she knew what she was doing. Next up my turn to try and redpoint Caviar , I was felling tired and not up for it but I would have a go anyway but then the weather turned on us, the sun came out and it got really hot , too hot for my route so after a quick go I sacked it off.
Deb on the other hand had had a good rest and luckily some cloud cover came across , so she went for a redpoint. She managed to get the first two clips and then just missed doing the crux move. She got back on and too the top not bad f8a with one rest, next time. By now we were tired again and had the long drive back to Wolverhampton.

check out the Video of Me falling off Caviar

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