Monday, July 13, 2009

Andy's 40th B'Day


Sunday was Andy's Walkers 40th birthday and all he wanted to do was do lead his new route at Llanymynech. We were all invited and the plan was to meet at the Quarry at 10am Saturday morning. I woke early that morning in anticipation of the day ahead, I had the responsiblity of getting his new route ready by putting all the hangers in place and making sure all the holds were clean. As I looked out of the window to see it had been raining all night and it still was! A quick phone call to Andy, as he was already near the quarry, he confirmed it had been raining but more to the point it had stopped there and looking ok, that was a relief.
We all meet on the car park and took the short walk into the quarry, it was dull and overcast and very humid, but route was dry. I quickly set too work getting ropes up and began to put the hangers in place ready for Andy. But first up was little Jack, after a quick practice on a tope rope, Jack lead the route just to the right of Andy's (Walker's Walk 6a+/b) clean easily, the bar had been set for the day.

Check out the Video here

Next up was Andy, a little under pressure from himself but confident. Off he went up the easy start too the first rest. After a quick shake out he took off , climbing confidently he got to the second brief rest. There was little bit of leg shake but he got that under control and made the long move to the jug and the last clip, just one more tricky move, this is were all times practicing the route would pay off. He's done it the lower off is clipped. Nice one Andy 1st Redpoint, cheers from every even an appearance for his hero Nick Dixon has he finished the last moves. Just in time the sun comes out.

Check out the Video here

Nick Dixon and myself quickly took the 2nd and 3rd Ascent to try and confirm the grade as 7a.

Next up was Joe with an old score to settle. Just before Joe went away traveling his was desperately trying to get is first 7a , he had done all the moves and on Slobberlob(7a+) but every time he tried to lead it he would end up falling off. So I went and put the clips in for him and had a quick top rope to refresh his memory and give it a could clean. Then went for his first redpoint, oh no he struggle to try and make the 4th clip and fails and takes a fall. Looks like this is going to be another mission. Another rest and then another go and he decides this time he will miss out the clip and he just misses catching the jug and he off again. Another rest and another go this time he fails on a lower move. That's it this time is going get done off he goes, misses the 4th clip lays one on for the jug catches it , clips the 5th clip one move and clips the lower off. Nice one , not bad for a first route in the 7's. Let the grade debate start as the many think this is 7b?

Check out the video here

While this was all going every else was enjoy themselves top roping rope and generally having fun. What a great day the weather held off and only to start raining as we packed up and walk back to the cars to off to the Birthday BBQ.

Cheers Andy for a good food and drink and great night and Happy Birthday!

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